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My R

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526 Re: My R on 28th June 2018, 8:52 am

gtir_woody

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So does anyone have advice on micron fuel filters? Im currently an in-tank pump, which feeds a surge tank. I’m thinking about running a 100 micron filter between the in-tank pump and the surge tank and a 30 micron filter between the surge tank and fuel rail. Below is the a smaller 30 micron filter that Id run between the surge tank and rail.



Below is the larger 100 micron filter between the in-tank pump and the surge tank.



However after doing some google searches, I've found people who run the reverse. Lower micron between in-tank pump and surge, then a higher filter between the surge tank and rail. Any advice on what I should be running? Also found people who run lower micron filters as well.

527 Re: My R on 28th June 2018, 9:57 am

ducie54

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These videos will answer all you questions. There's 9 to watch.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9anfxsXGSjwQhbdFAlVHP3CJ6p1yv93m

528 Re: My R on 28th June 2018, 3:34 pm

astarozna

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Lower micron for pull and higher micron for push. Makes pumps life easier and last longer.

529 Re: My R on 28th June 2018, 8:30 pm

gtir_woody

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Thanks guys.

That’s awesome Nigel, I’ll give them a watch tonight thumbsup

530 Re: My R on 28th June 2018, 9:39 pm

ducie54

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No worries. Use the largest (physical size) paper or fibreglass cartridge filter of the smallest micron filter you can afford.

Fuel quality through the injector is more important than pump output pressure.

531 Re: My R on 28th June 2018, 9:47 pm

ducie54

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@astarozna wrote:Lower micron for pull and higher micron for push. Makes pumps life easier and last longer.

I have a 10 micron fuel filter and have only 4 psi fuel pressure difference from outlet of the fuel tank to the pressure regulator. How much less time will my pump last?

Injector dynamics do a new fuel filter module that pretty cool.

532 Re: My R on 29th June 2018, 6:30 am

astarozna

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I honestly don't know the difference in time. Do you still have filter on in tank pump?

533 Re: My R on 1st July 2018, 6:04 am

gtir_woody

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Hi all,

Another question to pick your brain Laughing

As im running a single throttle body, im welding up all the left over vacuum ports and things I dont need anymore. Im thinking about running a distribution block on the firewall, which will make removing the intake manifold nice and easy.

I was thinking about welding a -10 fitting under the manifold and running single hose to the distribution block but wondering if that location on the manifold matters and if a single dash 10 line is enough?

Alternatively, I could the holes highlighted in circles and run twin lines to the distribution block? I was also wondering if some of those vacuum ports will be affect since ive removed the quads throttles? What you think I should do?

534 Re: My R on 1st July 2018, 11:32 am

ducie54

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This is from LINK G4 manual. I would check what haltech recommend as u could run into issues with delayed MAP signals if in a poor location
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535 Re: My R on 1st July 2018, 8:54 pm

gtir_woody

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That's a good diagram, cant find anything specific in haltech doco other than to avoid connecting the vacuum hose below the level of the injectors. I currently have the MAP/FPR t-ed off a port tapped into the top of the manifold, which aligns with that diagram so I could always leave them where they are and fit the distribution block for the remaining things.

536 Re: My R on 1st July 2018, 10:23 pm

ducie54

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I'm not sure how much signal filtering the haltech has but be careful when connecting the map sensor and FPR to the same hose. The fpr can act as a pulse dampner for the map signal.

Or you could weld a little plate on top of the plenum that has threaded holes for each vacuum port required.

https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/link-g4-plus-software-tutorial/show/evo-ix-link-plugin-acceleration-lean-issue#post19436

537 Re: My R on 2nd July 2018, 6:01 am

splmum

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Chris, have you considered using something like this
https://www.ebay.com/bhp/vacuum-block

538 Re: My R on 2nd July 2018, 7:51 am

gtir_woody

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@ducie54 wrote:I'm not sure how much signal filtering the haltech has but be careful when connecting the map sensor and FPR to the same hose. The fpr can act as a pulse dampner for the map signal.

Or you could weld a little plate on top of the plenum that has threaded holes for each vacuum port required.

https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/link-g4-plus-software-tutorial/show/evo-ix-link-plugin-acceleration-lean-issue#post19436

I think I will separate the MAP and FPR just to be safe.

So im making an assumption those ports in red circles might be no good now ive removed the quad throttles, as that changes where the pressure is best within the manifold?

If thats the case, that leaves me with welding fittings on top, assuming underneath like in my pic is not as good? I can either run a -10 hose to the distribution block and have everything running off that. Or maybe run 3 fittings on top, one for FPR, one for MAP, then one for the distribution block that will run the remaining sources? I did some googling and people run shit loads of things off a single distribution block but not sure if that's the best way.

539 Re: My R on 2nd July 2018, 7:52 am

gtir_woody

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@splmum wrote:Chris, have you considered using something like this
https://www.ebay.com/bhp/vacuum-block

Hey buddy, isn't that similar to what Im thinking about running?

540 Re: My R on 2nd July 2018, 11:24 am

Mr B

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gtir technician
gtir technician
your idea of a minimum of 3 points on intake in more ideal location would sound wise route and likely get better results and no running issues from sensor readings being effected .

541 Re: My R on 4th July 2018, 8:17 am

gtir_woody

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That's it mate, I've decided i'm going 3 fittings on top, one for FPR, one for MAP, then one for the distribution block that ill mount on the firewall that will run the remaining things.

Im pretty sure the answer is yes but can someone check for me if vacuum hoses would comfortably fit down the back of manifold between the firewall if I mounted them here?

542 Re: My R on 24th October 2018, 7:07 am

gtir_woody

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Been abit quiet so thought I may aswell do a small update.

Since I built my airbox I had to change where I mounted my catch can and remote oil filter. Here the old set up.

And the new air box

After alot of pondering I decided to move the catch can onto the side of the airbox. Made up a small bracket and ground back my horrid welds Laughing

Unfortunately where the catch can now mounts, I had to slightly move the location of the clutch line bracket. So I made a new bracket to mount the clutch line and also the remote oil filter, using some factory mounting locations.

Here's the finished result.

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