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Gtir Motorsport club » General Discusion » Gtir related Discussion » A reasonable priced clutch that can take some power ?

A reasonable priced clutch that can take some power ?

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pulsarmad20

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As the title says really ive got a spec stage 3 on it paddle clutch which has blew to bits about 1300 miles ... which im waiting for spec give me a refund or give me another clutch but im going to wait till the end off the year first due to the fact i dont really have the dolla to buy another ... so what makes and stages ? and what prices the spec one was just under 500 quid .. and i dont really have that sort of monet to chuck back at another one .

thanks

sam

nomad

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Admin
Admin
Competition clutches think Mr b has mentioned them quite a few times and seem fairly reasonable in price aswell .... is it not worth persuing with spec and see what they are going to do at least you know where you stand then ?


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mike74

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Ive got a competition clitch in mine and its holding up well *touches wood*
Tis a little heavy in traffic though...but very good value

astarozna

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What sort of power(nm @ the crank), sprung, unsprung, single, double? That determins the price really. Don't think you could have cheap and good in the same package.

johnny gtir

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moderator
moderator
Agree As above needs to be rated to the car and abit more

Mr B

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gtir technician
gtir technician
Must be sprung if want standard box last, CC will have something to match your needs in power and usage, do a search on here as quite a few threads on them and clutch pedal feel etc, I like the segmented 8pad or the 6puk CC . I use a 8pad in bangkok traffic no problem and bit of drag and been used almost 3yrs now, used puk and twin plates on evos too and they been good .
Certainly worth seeing if spec offer you something first though, even if want change you could sell on spec parts .

pulsarmad20

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@mike74 wrote:Ive got a competition clitch in mine and its holding up well *touches wood*
Tis a little heavy in traffic though...but very good value

My spec one is very light for a stage 3 paddle clutch but is a piece of shit tbh as I haven’t launched it and it’s fell apart

astarozna

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Ryaneg6freak

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Spec clutches are terrible, nothing but problems from everyone I know who has one.

I recommend ACT or Competition Clutch. Reasonably priced and good quality.

That being said, I run an OS Giken twin disc, and its freakin amazing, worth every penny and when it comes time for rebuild it's not terribly expensive (although the whole new setup is over $1000)

pulsarmad20

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Just had an email they insist my gearbox bearings are fucked and that has put pressure on the disc rotation ovally and smashing it to bits looks like I’m losing the battle here ... yet I’ve tested my gearbox shaft and guess wat it doesn’t move up down or sideways so no play in it ... wankers sorry for the language on lunch break and this has pissed me off .

astarozna

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Take you're box with and ask them to show you how if there's no play. Don't give in!

nomad

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Admin
Admin
How do they know have they got the gearbox ....? Tell them with there comment you have taken your gearbox to a specialist to have it looked at and tested and gearbox specialist has confirmed that there is no issue ... and you would like further discount or more of a refund as you have just paid out to the specialist to have it checked under there comment ... don't let the fucked win mate ....


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mike74

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^^^ agree totally!
another option is Helix clutches but they're not that cheap any more. Not too heavy a pedal and (in my experience) are reliable and last well

pulsarmad20

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@astarozna wrote:Take you're box with and ask them to show you how if there's no play. Don't give in!

Can’t spec are based in USA and only make clutched to order ... never again wankers

Mr B

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gtir technician
gtir technician
CC stage 4 6puk sprung a tough clutch and pedal not too heavy .

Was your spec friction plat sprung hub or solid hub .

The R eats solid hub clutches and if doesn't the hubs eat input shaft splines or the gearkit .

I've beat up CC stage 3 and 4 a lot, spanked a lot dragging and evo 6puk clutch lived through 3 box builds . They super cheap buy from states and not stupid money in europe from what I heard .
Can't buy cheap as direct kit for R but you buy right clutch and add the R style release bearing .

pulsarmad20

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@Mr B wrote:CC stage 4 6puk sprung a tough clutch and pedal not too heavy .

Was your spec friction plat sprung hub or solid hub .

The R eats solid hub clutches and if doesn't the hubs eat input shaft splines or the gearkit .

I've beat up CC stage 3 and 4 a lot, spanked a lot dragging and evo 6puk clutch lived through 3 box builds . They super cheap buy from states and not stupid money in europe from what I heard .
Can't buy cheap as direct kit for R but you buy right clutch and add the R style release bearing .

pulsarmad20

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Mr B

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gtir technician
gtir technician
What sort torque your motor put out and what sort of driving and clutch abuse you give it ?
What mileage and use it seen ?
Did you have and pulsing feedback in clutch pedal > any noise in use prior to issue ?

Hopefully it spec weak as piss hub as cheaper than other issues .

pulsarmad20

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It’s been on the road 1300 miles it was being ran in as the engine was built by bob . Engine is forged and on standard setup due to running in . It was fine right up till the night it went bang and that night it was getting harder and harder to get gears till loads of noise suddenly happened and I no longer had a clutch or drive .

Mr B

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gtir technician
gtir technician
Double check gearbox input runout and shaft float spec .
Check flywheel too and have it skimmed before new clutch fitted and this very important with ceramic friction clutches.
I would be inclined fit CC stage 3 or if think really need a 6puk the stage 4, stage 4 quite heavy so may want lighter sprung cover if mainly road use. With CC you can buy friction and cover as separate items so mix and match to an extent (sr20det 240mm 24spline, buy your own release bearing from blueprint or NTN-FCR62-32-14/2E)

pulsarmad20

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@Mr B wrote:Double check gearbox input runout and shaft float spec .
Check flywheel too and have it skimmed before new clutch fitted and this very important with ceramic friction clutches.
I would be inclined fit CC stage 3 or if think really need a 6puk the stage 4, stage 4 quite heavy so may want lighter sprung cover if mainly road use.  With CC you can buy friction and cover as separate items so mix and match to an extent (sr20det 240mm 24spline, buy your own release bearing from blueprint or NTN-FCR62-32-14/2E)

thanks for info mr b tbh that was going to be m next question lol could i buy a different disc and release bearing youve just answered that lol . i have another standard flywhell on a spare engine (my old engine) will check and see if flat and wat not before deciding out the 2 which one i put back on ... so could i use mecanisme from spec new bearing and disc from somewhere else ?

Mr B

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gtir technician
gtir technician
You could but reusing the spec cover would leave doubts on cause if have clutch fault again.
Going all new would remove all doubt and make any future faults easier conclude .
If do decide reuse spec cover check it over fully, resurface everything and preferably only use the ntn release bearing (they cheap, any bearing supplier can get them and blueprint adn13313 one probably mrk-konishi brand which pretty good)

pulsarmad20

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ill take some photos in the morning of the pressure plate its got a few marks from where il all fell aparts but the surface hasnt a mark i dont think havent really looked tbh

Mr B

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gtir technician
gtir technician
Will need a good inspection all over if considering reusing it.

pulsarmad20

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Had a message back from the company that sold the clutch there saying it’s my fault and there’s nothing they will do. Anyway going back to the point mr b ur help with choosing parts would be much appreciated mate . I’ll send some photos of pressure plate in the morning as I’m now off work so have the time .

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