Prop shaft strip and rebuild help needed.

Firstly, a huge thank you to Stu for selling me his spare subframe, rear diff and prop, an absolute top bloke who has been nothing but brilliant with me, and I haven't even got my car yet!
My plan is to fit this new subframe once it's been fully stripped, powder coated, new bushes etc, get the diff all cleaned up and the same with the prop shaft.
My question is, has anyone got any experience or advice with how to do it please?
I want to strip it completely and fit all necessary new parts which are subject of wear and tear...it's my OCD, please bear with me.
Many thanks for any help you can give.

Glad you said now i saved the complete rear diff subframe and hubs driveshafts tie bars etc for you wich i could of sold but turned the fella away as said its gone . You snooze you lose i guess .... advice would be get a decent set of press and pull sleeve kit some roded bar for the bushes just be thorough cleaning and de rusting parts watch out for two abs wiring..get the car up as high as you can to drop the subframe down onto a skatboard or small wheeled trolley that way you can slide it out rather than drag it .

Hang the calipers off the springs when you take it off saves bending or stretching the lines ....

@nomad wrote:Glad you said now i saved the complete rear diff subframe and hubs driveshafts tie bars etc for you wich i could of sold but turned the fella away as said its gone . You snooze you lose i guess .... advice would be get a decent set of press and pull sleeve kit some roded bar for the bushes just be thorough cleaning and de rusting parts  watch out for two abs wiring..get the car up as high as you can  to drop the subframe down onto a skatboard or small wheeled trolley that way you can slide it out rather than drag it .

Nomad, I am genuinely sorry! I had completely forgotten about me saying I would take those parts off you.
Hands up, that is completely my fault, I apologise.

Its ok dont worry about it .. i will just sell them cheap to clear some space as may not need any of them afterall anyway may just sell as a job lot .

Thank you, and again, apologies.

My plan is to 'build' a new, fresh, powder coated etc subframe, drive shafts etc with what I've got (ahem ) and then take off what's in the car then put on the new section, so nothing at the moment is actually on the car.
Does that make sense? Or am I confusing matters?

No i understand as exactly what i was or will be doing as alot quicker than rushing it on and off ... still what i said still stands ...its a pretty simple job really .. just leads onto others like said worth considering petrol tank fuel lines will its off .. . Then simple jack car up both wheels off the floor take wheels off remove rear exhaust ... get the car up as high as you can undo both bolts holding shock to hub take calipers off can just unbolt the whole carrier hang these up off the shocks that still remain removing handbrake cables at same time undo propshaft bolts closest to the rear diff ... disconnect the abs sensor plugs on top of the subframe then its just the big 4 nuts that hold the subframe lower it down onto something like a board bread trolley ir similar slide out then you can get to the petrol tank pipes if your doing so .... simple as that really ... think

Hopefully the long bolts through the rear hubs come out easily. There is also a thread on here about the rubber support bearings for the shaft if you need them. Something stable helps to drop the subframe, I had to pry mine off as it was stuck. When refitting just take your time and make sure each sub frame bush is sliding in and not binding.

I had a jack either side with a low trolley in the middle and eased it abit at a time with a pry bar/screwdriver .... i will do a how too when i get round to doing mine for future refference for others .... my rear calipers are defo need sorting ...

Wowzers that is commitment, not even got the car yet!

i've done a couple of subframe rebuilds, the hardest bit i've always found was getting the long bolts out as woody says, numbers 11 on this diagram:
http://static.nissan4u.com/epc_img/2518705783274.png

my first car was badly rotten under the subframe, i hope yours is not...

other useful diagrams here:
http://nissan4u.com/parts/sunny/er_n14/1990_10/type_23/

assuming you do not have a proper car lift, getting the subframe down i would recommend:

- driving forward on to ramps and wratchet strap a wheel to a ramp so it doesn't move.
- jack up rear of car using big trolley jack under the rear diff, use a small bit of wood when jacking various bits.
- put axle stands under the car either sills or there's kind of a lump with a hole in it between the sills and subframe mounting point which i find very strong/convenient.
- lower car on to stands, take off and put your rear wheels under the car so if it falls you don't get squashed.(it won't but you can't be too careful)
- big breaker bar and socket set to undo subframe nuts.
- lots of WD40, buy a 5 litre tub off ebay and a spray bottle from poundland.
- get friend to help balence the subframe on trolley jack as you lower it down.
- oh yes, disconnect suspension from hubs, tie with string calipers to the suspension springs, or remove the whole lot...
- undo prop shaft and roll bar end links.
- subframe should lower down, advice would be to undo subframe nuts not quite all the way, lower the jack and if the frame doesn't drop attack it with crow bar, it will drop on to the nuts then take the tension again with trolley jack, undo nuts and lower on jack under diff.

picture for inspiration:

2013-09-21-399 by edward guest, on Flickr

get your fuel tank out whilst you are there and scrub and hammerite car above it, also fix rotten brake lines...

2013-09-22-404 by edward guest, on Flickr

2013-09-22-405 by edward guest, on Flickr

don't paint subframe white, stupid idea, you will turn it black day one with your grubby/greasy/oily hands as you refit it

watch this with regards to pulling bushings:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhrY7clDIGE

i never used a hole saw but used a length of 10mm threaded bar to pull various smaller sized ratchet sockets with the bushing through significantly bigger sockets (transit van hub socket is pretty massive). the principle is the same, also giant washers, short bit of scaffolding/exhaust tube, use what you can etc.

another example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0a2mxp-FxYs

you could use a real tool but were's the fun in that!?!?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Pro-Pull-Press-Sleeve-Kit-Set-Bushes-Removal-Bearing-Cars-HGV-Tool-/222275711016

i have never fully powder coated frames simply just used wire brush on angle grinder and then hammerite direct to rust paint, dynax s50 inside the hollow bits, including the entire hollow bits of the car. great bit of kit that s50 stuff, comes in a can with a long lance...
http://www.aspo21.dsl.pipex.com//Rust/dynax_can_01.jpg

if you can't be arsed getting the huge bushings out or simply want to save £100 i can supply you with some inserts (and I have most of the rear suspension/trailing/lateral arm bushings brand new for sale, and prop bearing, PM for more info, lets keep this a how-to/help)

if you do want to do the big bushings i would recommend powerflex, make sure you leave the metal ring in place when you remove the original rubber.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Sunny-Pulsar-GTiR-Powerflex-Rear-Sub-Frame-Mount-Bushes-PFR46-109-/222261292356

blow torch is very useful too, i got all bushings out my first frame and arms 100% using fire.

I'm sure a lot of people can provide more pictures and advice.

check your cv joints and boots. inner cv joints rarely go wrong, inner and outer cv boots are very cheap (like £5 each, stretch boots are very good), outer cv joints can be found for £35ish new. Wheel bearings £35ish too.

whilst it is all off the car try and undo your abs sensors from the hubs, maybe soak the hubs in WD40, they are masive pain in the arse rusted stuck f'kers! if they throw up an error code your light will come on and you fail MOT, massive b'stard to undo

Good luck with it all, shout if you want more info!

Awesome write up, rep given

Can't thank you enough for that write up and explanation, absolutely brilliant, thank you so much!

I've just done mine, that write up is superb.
Those long bolts I just cut mine and bought new ones.

Anyone got the brace and bolts that hold the diff in place? It's the bar to the front of the subframe that just takes the weight of the diff. I kind of lost mine in the chaos of escort and mr2 parts.

Brand new bolts ?

If anyone can help with regards to links for perishable items that will need replacing, please chip in.
Got the link off mreguest for the bushes, have found the inner cv boots but will need outer cv boots if anyone knows the correct place?
Many thanks again.

I.c.p mate ....

https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=9975&cat=87&sub=119&sec=1184&var=0&dc=&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart=

https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts?cat=87&sub=119&sec=1184

outer rears cv boots same as front outers.
Be careful what boots you get as some fit crap, Blueprint and solid ace pretty good if right p/n .
https://www.gtir-motorsport-club.com/t4373-cv-boots

Agreed, I used some blueprints, fit well.

What about parts 2 and 10 in this diagram please folks?

http://nissan4u.com/parts/sunny/er_n14/1990_10/type_23/power_train/rear_drive_shaft/illustration_1/

rear outer cv joint is same as front so easily found but don't buy too cheap or they junk.
If they complete and not obviously damaged/worn (rears got easy life) a clean and regrease of originals better than new cheap pattern parts .

Thank you for all your help and advice so far, appreciated.

@johnny gtir wrote:Brand new bolts ?

Yes, every nut and bolt on the rear of the car was replaced with bushes.

Got them all for the fronts too, just need time to swap new callipers, bushes and struts in.

How did you get the bolts out if you had to cut them, I'm confused with the concept. To get any threaded part out would need rotating (or drilling but surely you didn't?) so if it rotates then why cut?
Either way those bolts are massive bastards!
Cheers