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Gtir Motorsport club » Tech room » frequently asked Qs / how to guide » Wanna stop - Heres how!

Wanna stop - Heres how!

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1Wanna stop - Heres how! Empty Wanna stop - Heres how! on 13th April 2020, 6:38 am

Gidanski


If you've put a massive turbo and upped the boost on your GTiR and it's doing it's best Queen impression (DONT STOP ME NOW!!)
then this may be a good read for you! I have spent hours cross referencing part numbers and known fitted kits to make this list.

You'll need a bunch of factory Nissan parts and a will to use them, some slight mods will be needed depending on what you require but nothing too serious.



Stub axles and Tie rods
As we are swapping to a N16 stub axle up front, a lot of things change. Rears we just keep the stock RNN14 knuckle. The N16 front hub also has a slightly different tie rod location and as a result may require a longer inner tie rod/rack end.

RNN14 Rack end
280 mm, M16x1 (Rack), M14x1.5 (tie rod) Nissan part #48521-60Y05 (Mine was a 14mm outer)

Aftermarket S/R/Z
380mm, M16x1 (Rack), M14x1.5 (Tie Rod). Can be trimmed down as has loads of threads on the end.

Another option is a steering rack spacer kit as this will add around 38mm to the rack width as well as more lock.

If you're wondering why I haven't listed new CV shafts for the hubs, its because the end of the CV's are actually exactly the same dimensions between RNN14, SSS N15 and N16. The only difference is that the later model shafts are slightly longer to make up for the hubs sitting out further due to longer LCA's. So if you require a wider track width on the front, or just more camber, install a pair of N15 front LCA's and SSS CV shafts, as this nets a bonus 10mm track per side, and a slight camber gain as the strut has to lean further inwards at the top to meet the strut top mount.

Hubs
So listed below is what you need for each stud pattern to change if needed.

4x100
Front is the only one that needs hubs swapped, Re-use your N14 hubs in the N16 spindles.

4x114.3
Grab another pair of N16 FRONT hubs and press them into the rear knuckles. Need to be front ones as its splined for the CV to go through. N16 rears have a bearing inside them.

5x114.3
Here's the only modified parts needed. Plug and redrill 4x N16 front hubs.
The N16 hub having a flat rear face makes this simpley your local diff shop should be able to do this piece of cake as they usually do this stuff all the time.
Will need to either purchase 4 extra studs or take 4 from your stock ones.


Brake Calipers.
You're probably upgrading these too to gain extra efficiency and better pad choices.
Rears are pretty much some factory parts, Fronts are to0, to an extent but require a specific caliper.

Stock N16E Front Single piston calipers and 280mm rotors
These will usually come with your Stub axle. So is a free upgrade and you may even get usable pads and rotors too! Later model 1.8 only


4 piston front calipers made for 280mm discs - Z32, S14, R32 GTS-T.
When fitted to the N16/P10/P11 will need 272-274mm discs (turned down S14/Z32 discs).

Rather not do that. You can machine rotors down if you wanna, but I cant be bothered stuffing around
with reducing the size of a perfectly good brake rotor and likely to throw the balance of the rotor
out then removing a bunch of material from the outside edge. In short, yeah, nah. Moving on...


4 piston front calipers made for 296mm discs - R32 GTR, R33 GTS-T.
When fitted to the N16/P10/P11 can use 280mm discs from S14 or Z32.
Possible pad overlap? Recommend using S14 pads for less overhang.
Rotors - off the shelf with a stud pattern redrill, much safer!
Plus R32 GTR calipers are alloy, so you're adding extra lightness!

Rear calipers
Maxima rear caliper brackets as this will space the oem caliper back to the centerline of the car 12mm and further
out out 10mm, just need to swap in the N14 caliper (the bit with the piston in it).

A-1 CARDONE Part # 141506  
DORMAN Part # 619503



Brake setups.
So below are your options for rotors and calipers, keeping in mind rotors will require drilling to suit your needs.

280mm Single Piston - 14 inch rims may fit, reccomend 15's
Stock N16 pulsar stuff from later 1.8l models

280mm Four Piston - Recommend 15 inch wheels
Z32TT Rotors
R32 GTR / 33 GTST Calipers
S14 pads

324mm 4 Piston - 17 inch rims NEEDED - Untested*
R32 GTR / 33 GTST Calipers
R32 Brembo Rotors
Caliper adapters for Z32/R32/S14/S15 (280mm to 324mm)

* (Now the 324mm conversion should just work like all the others as the GTR calipers fit a 280mm rotor and the conversion brackets are listed as taking a 280mm rotor to the 324mm rotor. I have not come across anyone running it yet, I hope to be the first)

Anyway that's the front covered so what's the rear need?

Rear 278mm - Single piston

A32 Maxima rear caliper brackets w/ RNN14 stock assembly swapped
N16 rear rotors for 4 stud, A32 rears for 5



Wheels and nuts.
Wheels these days are cheap and if you're fitting 4 piston calipers they're more then likely gonna smash against the inside of the rim anyway. And if you're going for the big 324mm's you're gonna need 17's anyway.

Some of the shallower offset, i.e. N15 SSS, rims will require spacers for the 4 piston calipers just due to how far the caliper comes away from the face of the brake rotor.

Whilst I personally do not recommend spacers, if you must I recommend spacers that are hub-centric in nature, GK-Tek do 10mm hubcentric spacers to suit 5x114.3 so you can use factory rims. Most S/R/Z chassis rims will clear these as they are designed to do so from factory, newer model 5 stuff stuff probably won't though.

As for wheel nuts, you'll only have 16 on hand so if you're going 5 stud and ar using your old wheel nuts, now's the time to grab a set of lock nuts to bring yourself up to 20 or get some nice aftermarket ones. And I feel I have to say it but.....

DO NOT USE ALUMINIUM OR TITANIUM WHEEL NUTS ON A STREET CAR
DO NOT USE ALUMINIUM OR TITANIUM WHEEL NUTS ON A STREET CAR
DO NOT USE ALUMINIUM OR TITANIUM WHEEL NUTS ON A STREET CAR

Got that? If not, give it another read for good measure.

I have worked in the tyre industry and they are a absolute pain in the arse as no one ever takes care of them or installs them correctly, plus the tyre and spanner monkies usually sends all the ugga duggas with a torque stick.

They either strip, rust on or snap studs. Or even worse, gunk up the studs and you end up cleaning studs with a die set.

I have no issue with a motorsport vehicle using them as they usually get checked thourghly and cleaned, but a normal road car will not and as a result of water ingress and corrosion, torqing them to spec will more than likely result in a failure.
If you can even get them off in the first place....

Rant over, moving on....


Brake master.

If you upgrade the caliper on the front to 4 piston and leave the master the brake pedal will have more travel and be softer, this is all down to personal preference, but if this is an issue for you after installing, a larger master off another model Nissan will help reduce travel and firm the pedal back up.

BM44 - 15/16 inch diameter
GTiR RNN14, Pleb Spec S/R/Z chassis

BM50 - 1 inch diameter, Ignore as its just here for comparison.
S14/15, R32GTR, R33 GTS-T, R34GT, Some Z32

And our winner...
D22 Navara Non-ABS 1 inch master


Now why is the BM50 to be ignored?
Well, S/Z/R chassis masters have some kind of valves built into the master (Proportioning?), and we don't require that for our a GTiRs, whereas the D22 doesn't and is a direct bolt in on the RNN14 Booster, and the brake lines even line up!



Rotors
So below is a table of all possible rotors for the various swaps, both 4 and 5 stud are covered with 4x100 obviously needing machining to match the hub. DBA part numbers and models also listed in case you're not from Australia.

All rotors are hub-centric and all hubs share the same size, meaning rotors will always sit true in regards to the hub. All part numbers listed are for smooth rotors, obviously if you want slotted or drilled you can order those as required.
Have listed the stock GTiR stuff for comparisons sake.

Front

ModelR32 BremboZ32TTN16ERNN14
DBA part #DBA4298DBA909DBA919DBA901
Diameter (mm)324280280257
Width (mm)30302228
Min thickness28282026
Height (mm)53.75544945
Bore (mm)68686868
Stud pattern5x114.35x114.34x114.34x100



Rear

ModelA32N16ERNN14
DBA Part#DBA915DBA2301DBA917
Diameter (mm)280280257
Thickness (mm)9107
Min thickness (mm)896
Height (mm)454533.5
Bore (mm)686868
Stud Pattern5x114.34x114.34x100





Conclusion.
This stuff is basically lego for adults, kinda like Nissan planned this to easily swappable.
I recommend also fitting braided lines, flushing brake fluid with fresh DOT 4 as a minimum and replacing wheel bearings whilst everything is apart for the new hubs to be pressed as even if you are staying 4x100 the fronts need to be fitted and you may as well do all 4 at the same time, same with the 5/4x114.3. 5 needs all 4 out, 4 stud needs rears done only but just do them all while its apart and save on labour if you're paying someone else to do this for you.

Remember to get it wheel aligned or else you have a very high chance of destroying your tyres!!!!

Now enjoy the car with brakes designed for much larger, heavier and faster cars in mind. Hopefully this get made into a sticky so everyone know what to do and what to get to save confusion.

2Wanna stop - Heres how! Empty Re: Wanna stop - Heres how! on 14th April 2020, 4:06 am

ducie54

ducie54
So what are the before and after measurements of roll center, Ackerman and bump steer after swapping to N16 hubs?

3Wanna stop - Heres how! Empty Re: Wanna stop - Heres how! on 14th April 2020, 8:11 am

Gidanski


Roll centre should be the same as from what I have found there is minimal difference to the dimensions of the bearings in relation to the strut/ball joint. As for ackerman, I will have to let you know once I do the swap. Awaiting on parts atm so obviously unable to measure.

4Wanna stop - Heres how! Empty Re: Wanna stop - Heres how! on 14th April 2020, 9:27 am

ducie54

ducie54
So nothing is measured just assumed. I'll stick to my big brakes using gtir hubs thanks.

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